The Ladies' Handbook of Fancy and Ornamental Work Miss Florence Hartley Riley Hull Tara Boyd Trisha Binwade

This text in particular is interesting because of the connectivity it fosters between the past and the present, specifically in regards to the subject of “fancy and ornamental” work. In that sense, our edition hopes to offer a text that highlights various methods of ornamental work that were utilized in the past, thus allowing us to preserve these traditional practices, introduce a new audience of people to them, and invite comparison between the methods of the past and those of the present day. Within our class at the University of Washington, we first chose a specific section of the text to focus on, ultimately ending up choosing the knitting section because its relatively concise nature meant we would be able to complete an entire section. We then transcribed the text into plain text digital files and created a project schema to guide our TEI markup. We plan to encode and markup our text and create some sort of digital edition interface to help facilitate our goals and bring our text to a modern audience.

This text is found in the Costume and Textile Collections within the University of Washington Special Collections Library. It is a medium-sized, hard-bound text in a dark brown binding. The Ladies' Handbook of Fancy and Ornamental Work Miss Florence Hartley John E. Potter & Company 617 Samson Street, Philadelphia PA 1859 TT 750 H37

There were very minimal spelling modernizations, as most of the text consisted of words that fit in with modern vernacular and would be understandable to a modern audience.

There were very minimal grammar and spelling errors, which were ultimately adjusted by the editors based on the text’s established patterns and grammatical structure.

Published in 1859 by John E. Potter & Company, The Ladies’ Handbook of Fancy and Ornamental Work is an instructional text written by Miss Florence Hartley, who ensures her readers that the material within her pages was “compiled from the best authorities.” This historical handbook is centered around traditionally-feminine crafts and skills, such as sewing, baking, crocheting, embroidery, and – as this editorial edition specifically focuses on – knitting. Given that these types of texts are not as commonplace in today’s society or literary sphere, Hartley’s text provides an interesting look at the culture and practices of the past.

Specifically focusing our efforts on Hartley’s instructions for knitting, this specific edition offers an overview of numerous knitting-based crafts exactly as they were done in the late nineteenth century. We hope to bring visibility to these traditional practices by presenting them to a new audience of people, ultimately helping to preserve the knowledge and culture of past generations. For those that have no prior experience with knitting, this text may serve as a captivating introduction to the practice itself, especially in the context of its history. On the other hand, for readers that do have experience with knitting, this edition may provide a basis for intriguing comparisons between the methods of the past and those of the present day.

For this edition, there were very minor changes made from the source text, specifically in terms of transcription. While a majority of Hartley’s text is indeed presentable to a modern audience, there were a small number of spelling and grammar alterations made to best ensure that the instructions of this edition were as clear as possible.
To attempt to enumerate the many articles which can be made by knitting, would be useless, as volumes might be written without exhausting the subject, and its advantages, both of use and ornament, are almost as inexhaustible. Knitting can truly be called the friend of the aged and blind; the fingers supplying the want of eyesight, and solacing many weary hours which otherwise would be tedious to bear. It gives employment to the poor, amusement to the rich, and supplies to all something in the way of garments, either useful or ornamental. The beautiful shawls, so fashionable of late years, are many of them knit by ladies, in their moments of leisure; and caps, comforters, tippets, gaiters, shoes etc. are made in vast quantities, either for money or for gifts to friends. In ornamental knitting, with silk and beads, the number is almost as great as for purely useful articles. The implements necessary, are different sizes of needles, called knitting needles, and cotton, wool, or silk, as desired. The position of the hands is important in learning to knit, either to be a rapid or elegant knitter; but practice alone will enable a person to become a thorough proficient.
One collage instructional guide showing 9 seperate images, marked by figure numbers 1-9. Each smaller image consists of a diagram of hands or knitting needles, showing specific knitting steps and types of stitches described in the text following the image.
Fig. 1, The first process in casting on. — Hold the end of cotton between the first and second fingers of the left hand, twist it over the thumb and forefinger, and bend the latter to twist the cotton into a loop ; bend the needle in the loop ; hold the cotton, attached to the reel, between the third and little fingers of the right hand, and over the point of the forefinger ; bring the thread round the needle, by the slightest possible motion ; bend the needle towards you, and tighten the loop on the left hand finger, in letting it slip off to form the first stitch. Fig. 2. Now take that needle with the loop on it, in the left hand, and another in the right. Observe the position of the hands. The left hand needle is held between the thumb and the second finger, leaving the forefinger free, to aid in moving the points of the needles. This mode of using the forefinger, instead of employing it merely to hold the needle, is the great secret of being able to knit without looking at the work ; for so extremely delicate is the sense of touch in this finger, that it will, after a little practice, enable you to tell the sort of stitch coming next, in the finest material, so that knitting becomes merely mechanical. The engraving indicates the mode in which the right hand needle should be held. Insert the point in the loop, bringing it behind the other needle, slip the thread round it, bring the point in front, and transfer the loop to the left hand needle, without withdrawing it from the right hand. Repeat the process for any number of stitches required. Fig. 3. Plain Knitting. — Slip the point of the right hand needle in a loop, bring the thread round it, and, with the forefinger, push the point of the needle off the loop, so that the thread, just twisted round, forms a new one on the right hand. Fig. 4. Purling. — The right hand needle is slipped in the loop in front of the left hand one, and the thread, after passing between the two, is brought round it ; it is then worked as before. The thread is always brought forward before beginning a purled stitch, unless particular directions to the contrary are given. Fig. 5. The mode of malting stitches. — To make one, merely bring the thread in front, before knitting, when, as it passes over the needle, it makes a loop ; to make two, three, or more, pass the thread round the needle in addition, once for two, twice for three, and so on. Fig. 6. To decrease. — Take one stitch off without knitting ; knit one, then slip the point of the left hand needle in the unknitted stitch, and draw it over the other. To decrease two or more, slip one, knit two, three, or more together, as one, and pass the slip-stitch over. Fig. 7. The way to join a round. — Four or five needles are used in round work, such as socks, stockings, etc. Cast on any given number of stitches on one needle, then slip another needle in the last stitch, before casting any on it ; repeat for any number. When all are cast on, knit the first two stitches off on to the end of the last needle. One needle is always left unused in casting on for a round. Fig. 8. The way of joining the toe of a sock, or any similar thing. — Divide all the stitches on to two needles, hold both, in the left hand as if they were one, and in knitting, take a loop off each one, which knit together. Fig. 9. To cast off. — Knit two stitches ; with the left hand needle draw the first over the second ; knit another ; repeat. Observe that the row before the casting-off should never be very tightly knitted. Fig. 10. This shows the mode of knitting three stitches together, so that the centre one shall be in front. Slip two off the needle together ; knit the third, and draw the others over together. To raise a stitch, is to knit the bar of thread between the two stitches, as one.
Specimens of Knitting.
Image of a knitted slipper, with multiple horizontal layers of varied, patterned knitting and a fringe with tassels surrounding the top.

Turkish Slipper.

Book Cushion In Orne Knitting. Materials. — One ball of No. 16 Orne' knitting wool ; No. 11 knitting pins ; one-half ounce shaded amber ; one-half ounce of deep claret Berlin wool. No. 2 Penelope Hook ; 1 yard of twilled colored lining ; two-thirds yard of claret colored cotton or silk velvet ; as much bran as will stuff the cushion hard. Some silk gimp or worsted bullion fringe to match, and four tassels.
A decorative cushion, with tassels on each corner. A knit decor center of flowers across the top of the cushion.

Book Cushion in Orne Knitting.

The Orne knitting ball consists of beautifully colored threads of fine wool knotted at equal lengths ; each knot terminating one row ; and this, when knitted up, produces the engraved elegant design, which is twenty-two inches long by seventeen broad. With the claret Berlin wool cast on 140 stitches, then join on the Orne' knitting ball, and knit it in moss-stitch, thus :1st Row. — Slip 1. Knit and pearl each stitch alternately. 2nd. — Slip 1. Pearl and knit alternately. Observe that the stitch which was pearled, must in the next row be knitted, and always slip the first stitch. By continuing this from knot to knot the design will work itself out ; but should the thread of wool be too long or too short, tighten or slacken the preceding stitches, with a pin, or the finger and thumb, but invariably bring the knot to the edge. When the ball is knitted up, with the claret wool work a row of Dc all round, making three stitches into each corner stitch of the knitting. Then, with shaded wool, work a row of double L stitches all round. These are made by twisting the wool twice over the hook ; work three stitches into every stitch at the corner. Then, with claret wool, work another row ; damp the knitting, pull it, and lay it between linen clothes under a heavy weight. Now make up the cushion, and trim it as in engraving. This work will wash and look equal to new, by mixing a little ox-gall with a little curd soap lather, and washing it in the ordinary way, spreading it out to dry, and turning it frequently.
A short shoe, with multiple knitted horizontal rows and a bow at the front of the ankle.

Knitted Shoe.

A tall, shin height knitted shoe and sock combination, with a hard sole, patterned vertical knit rows, and a scalloped edge at the top.

Knitted Stocking.

Explanation of Terms Used in Knitting, and Hints on Knitting. To cast on- The first interlacement of the cotton on the needle. To cast off- to knit two stitches, and to pass over the second, and so on to the last stich, which is to be secured by drawing the thread through. To cast over- to bring the cotton forward round the needle. To narrow- to lessen by bringing two stitches together. To seam- to knit a stitch with the cotton before the needle. To widen- to increase by making a stitch, bringing the cotton round the needle, and knitting the same when it occurs. A turn- two rows in the same stitch, backwards and forwards. To turn- to change the stitch. A row- the stitches from one end of the needle to the other. A round- a row when the stitches are on two, three, or more needles. A plain row- that composed of simple knitting. To pearl a row- to knit with the cotton before the needle. To rib- to work alternate rows of plain and pearl knitting. To bring the thread forward- to bring the cotton forward so as to make an open stitch. A loop stitch- made by bringing the cotton before the needle, which in knitting the succeeding stitch, will again take its own place. To slip or pass a stitch- to change it from one needle to the other without knitting it. To fasten on- the best way is to place the ends contrariwise, and knit a few stitches with both together. To take under- to pass the cotton from one needle to the other without changing its position.
Pearl, seam, and rib-stitch are the same. Be careful in knitting to have the cotton or wool of a moderate tension-not too lose, nor too tight. When it is requisite to cast off, and continue a row on a separate needle, run a coarse thread through the cast off stitches, as they are easily taken up when required. It is a good plan to have children taught to knit, boys as well as girls, and to have them learn to knit without looking at their work. Old ladies who have lost their sight often knit very beautifully, and as a general rule we find that they began very young, and learned to knit without giving their work steady attention. The blind in all Asylums are beautiful knitters, and in case of any accident to the eyesight it would be a great resource, as well as when deprived of sight by old age. Knitting needles vary in size and length. For small articles the short ones are most convenient. They are made of steel, bone, ivory, or wood, and you purchase such sizes as agrees with the work you have to do. In all large trimming stores where this kind of material is kept, they will tell you the best sizes, if you are ignorant yourself. Here is a cut of a gauge for measuring needles for knitting and netting meshes, and for crochet needles.
A side-view of a metal gauge tool, resembling a spoked wheel with a hollow center and several spokes labeled with numbers 1-19.

Wire Gauge

Opera Cap These caps look the prettiest when of two colors. The material is single Berlin wool. Scarlet and white contrast extremely well. To commence, cast on seventy-two loops on the smallest sized ivory needles, with the scarlet wool; knit and purl until you have five rows knitted on the right side; this forms one stripe. Take the white wool and repeat this, only reversing the stripe, continue this process until you have nine stripes, purled and knitted alternately; five of the scarlet, four of the white. Before casting off prepare as follows: take the first loop upon your needle, drop the second, take the third, and so on to the end of the row, taking care to avoid any mistake, which would be the ruin of the whole. The first and last loops must of course be preserved. You will now have just half the original number of loops upon your needle. Cast off, leaving the wool very loose. Afterwards assit the dropped loops to run down. This makes a very simple but very pretty stitch in knitting. The fringe is now to be added, which is done by looping lengths of wool through the stitches just cast off, and slipping the ends through the loop, so as to form a knot. The ends of the knitted pieces are now to be gathered up with a needle, the ribbon string attached, a pretty rosette of the same sewed on over the gathering up, and this useful little article is completed.
A knitted opera cap, with fringe at the bottom, alternating knitted horizontal rows, and a bow at the back.

Four Beautiful Patterns Of Lace Edgings, for Collars, Dresses, &c. By means of the following directions, every lady can provide herself with lace edgings of the most durable kinds, and without either much expense or trouble. These laces, when knit with fine thread and small needles, are exceedingly pretty. When they are intended for common wear, or to trim the bottom of petticoats, they should be knit with needles of the ordinary size, and coarse cotton. They wash well, and wear a long time. After a little practice, a great facility in knitting them is acquired, and the work progresses with a rapidity which young beginners are apt to despair of obtaining. Cast on 8 stitches.-1st row,-take off the first stitch without knitting it, knit plain the 2 next, lap in the thread once, take off 1 stitch, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 1, lap in the thread twice, knit 1, lap in the thread twice, knit 1. 2nd row,-knit plain 2 stitches, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 3. 3rd row,-take off the first stitch, knit 2, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit the rest. 4th row,-knit the two first, slip and bind, knit, and slip and bind, until only 7 stitches are on the left hand needle, and one on the other, knit 3, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit the rest. Cast on 11 stitches.-1st row,-take off the first stitch, knit 2, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 1, lap in the thread twice, knit 1. 2nd row,-knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 3. 3rd row,-take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 1, lap in the thread, take off 1, knit 1, slip and bind, knit the rest. 4th row,-knit 2, slip and bind, knit, and slip and bind, until only 10 stitches are on the left hand needle, and one on the other, knit 3, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit the rest. Cast on 11 stitches.-1st row,-knit 3, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1, make 1, narrow 1, make 2, narrow 1, knit 1. 2nd row,-knit 3, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1. 3rd row,-knit 3, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1, make 1, narrow 1, knit 4. 4th row,-knit 2, slip and bind, knit 4, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1, make 1, narrow 1, knit 1. Cast on 7 stitches.-1st row,-take off 1 stitch, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1. 2nd row,-make 1 stitch, knit 2, seam 1, put back your thread, knit 1, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. 3rd row,-take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1. 4th row,-make 1, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 1, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. 5th row,-take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 7. 6th row,-knit 8, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. 7th row,-take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1, lap in the thread twice, narrow, lap in the thread twice, narrow 1, knit 1. 8th row,-knit 3, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 2, seam 1, and put back your thread, knit 1, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2. 9th row,-take off 1, knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 10. 10th row,-knit, and slip and bind 8, leaving 6 on the other needle, then knit 2, lap in the thread once, narrow 1, knit 2.
A Baby's Sock With 2 colors done in stripes, and double German lamb's-wool. Cast on 26 stitches, knit a plain row with the first color, fasten on the second, knit a row, adding a stitch at the end for the heel, and back again; then take the first color, knit a row, adding another stitch, and back again; continue the same, alternately, but without adding any more stitches for the heel, until there are 6 ridges of each color; then with the first, knit a row, and in coming back, cast off 15 stitches, beginning from the end at which you added two sticthes, knit the 13 that are left; with the second color, knit a row and back again, then knit a row and back again with the first, and continue the same until you have four ridges of the second, and three of the first color: then with the first color knit the 13 stitches, add 15, and knit back again. Finish this side like the other, only decreasing for the heel. It is then sewed up in the shape of a shoe. Take four needles, pick up the 36 stitches round the instep, putting 12 on each of three needles, and knit two rounds plain, then pass the lamb's-wool forward, so as to form a stitch, slip a stitch, and knit two plain, then pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones, pass the lamb's-wool forward, and repeat this for one round, continue plain knitting for an inch; after that, rib 4 rows, knit 4, rib 4, knit 2, and cast off.
Baby's Socks. 1st Size. Two ivory needles, No. 12, and 3-ply fleecy are required. Cast on 24 stitches; knit two plain rows, add one stitch; knit 2 more rows and add another stitch which forms the heel; then continue knitting until you can count 10 ridges; cast off 14 stitches, beginning from where you added on for the heel: knit 6 more ridges, add on 14 stitches, and make this side to match with the other, decreasing for the heel. Pick up the 14 loops on each side, with the 6 in the middle, and put them all on one needle: knit a plain row, then a row of holes for the ribbon to pass through, which is done in this manner:-begin with the lamb's-wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the next, and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one; after this row is finished, knit 8 ridges.
Fringe. No. 1. A skein of knitting cotton must be cut into 8 lengths for the fringe; or, if you wish your fringe to be very deep, cut your skein into 4 or 6. The most convenient way, is to divide these lengths into sets containing 3 threads in each, and lay them before you, then with a ball of the same cotton, and two steel needles, which should be rather coarse, cast on 8 stitches, and knit 1 row plain; begin the next row by knitting the first 2 stitches plain, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 stitches taken together, by this means you make a loop stitch; take 1 of the sets of cotton, put the ends even, double it in half, and loop it over the needle you are knitting with, forward; knit 1 stitch, pass the set back between the needles, knit 2 stitches, bring the set forward again, and knit the last stitch. The back rows are plain knitting; you must be careful to take the whole head of the set with the 4th stitch, which leaves 4 to be knitted plain, and you have 8 as at the beginning; after finishing this row, give the set or tuft a pull down, which puts it in its right place, before beginning another.
Fringe. No.2. Cast on 9 stitches. Slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd and 3rd, bring the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn the thread forward, knit 2 together, knit the last. When you have the length you want, cast off 5 stitches, and unravel the 4 others, which form the fringe. This fringe may be made wider, by casting on 12 or 15 stitches.
Herring-Bone Purse. Two needles only are required for this knitting. Cast on 88 stitches, begin with the silk forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pass the 1st over the 2nd, knit a stitch, bring the silk forward, and rib the next. When this is done, the silk will be forward; begin again. If the purse is required to be longer, cast on as many stitches as are necessary, observing that it must be a number which can be divided by four.
A Strong Purse. With 2 steel needles and coarse netting silk, cast on 60 stitches, knit the first, bring the silk forward, slip a stitch, knit the next, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the silk forward and begin again. The second row is simple knitting.
Porcupine Knitting For A Purse. Four fine needles, nearly 3 skeins of netting silk, and one string of gold beads are required. Thread some of the beads on the silk, before you begin. Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit a plain round; knit 4 stitches, bring the silk forward, knit a stitch—this is the centre stitch of the pattern—bring the silk forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch, taking it under, knit 2 taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the 4 stitches, etc.; it is better at the end of each needle to knit a stitch of the next one, as it prepares for the next round. Continue thus for 6 rounds, increasing before and after every centre stitch, and knitting till within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit a plain round. Knit another round plain, excepting over the centre stitches, where you are to knit a bead, bringing it through the stitch. Knit a plain round, keeping the beads on the outside of the purse. (This purse is knitted wrong side outwards.) Knit to within one stitch of the bead stitch, which slip; knit 2 together: these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch you decreased with the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch for the bead. It is easy to count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you decreased. This pattern is very pretty for a boa, knitted with German lamb's wool, and needles No.15.
Spotted Purse. Cast on 69 stitches; take off the first stitch, bring the silk forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 last, repeat this to the end of the row. The back rows are ribbed. This pattern is very pretty in two colors, changing them every 2 rows.
Another Purse. First row: slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pass the first stitch over the second; repeat this to the end of the row. Second row: bring the silk forward every time. This is a very pretty stitch for doyleys, with a plain border. Any even number of stitches may be set up.
A Net Purse In Points. Fifty stitches long, and 80 rows wide, of a middle-sized silk and mesh. Net 31 stitches, with one color, and back again; then 28, 25, 22, 19, and back again to each; then with the other color, begin at the distance of 19 stitches, and net until you meet the side already done: pass the needle through the stitch to connect them. Half a point is now done, you reverse the number of stitches to complete it. It is also very pretty if the points are made longer, say 45 stitches, decreasing by four stitches every other row, until you leave only 5 for the other point.
Corkscrew Netting For A Purse. Two different colored silks are required, for instance, brown and blue; 1 mesh, and 2 needles; thread each of the needles with one color. A round foundation, consisting of 60 stitches, should be used. Join both needles on together, net with the brown 30 stitches, then begin with the blue and net the other 30 stitches; net the blue silk back, and continue it over 6 stitches of the brown; now take the needle with brown, pass it through the blue stitch, and net till you meet the needle with blue, turn back (still with the brown silk) and net round till you have gone over 6 blue stitches; net with blue again, passing the needle through the brown stitch; continue thus advancing each color 6 stitches at one side, and receding at the other, till the purse is one-third long enough, then begin the opening, which is made by omitting to pass the silk through the stitch at one place; the pattern you must carry on as before, for which you will be obliged to fasten on your silk to fill up where you recede.
Doyleys. Two needles are required. Cast on 86 stitches, knit a row of two stitches plain, and two ribbed. In the 2nd row, rib the stitches that were plain in the first row, and knit plain those that were ribbed. In the 3rd row, rib the stitches that were ribbed in the last row, and knit plain those that were knitted plain. 4th row, rib the plain stitches and knit the ribbed ones. Repeat these four rows five times. 2nd pattern in the doyley, continue the first pattern for 10 stitches, then knit, putting the cotton twice round the needle, every stitch, until you have only 10 left on the needle, knit them like the 10 first; these 10 stitches on each side form the border, and are always the same pattern; knit the next three rows plain, except the border; then repeat the first row of this pattern; knit 3 rows; the border as before. 3rd row, begin with the cotton forward, knit two in one, bring the cotton forward, etc., until you come to the border again; knit 3 plain rows, repeat those 4 rows 3 times, and begin the 2nd pattern again; continue these two patterns alternatively, until the doyley is nearly square, then finish with the same width of border as at the top. For this knitting, your cotton and needles should be rather fine. N.B. Many of the patterns given as purse stitches are very pretty for doyleys, with a border either of plain or fancy knitting.
Save All Bag. Four coarse needles are required. This bag is so called, because it may be made with odds and ends of netting silk, or all of one color, at pleasure. Cast 40 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit one plain round; then knit one stitch, bring the silk forward, knit a stitch, thus forming a loop-stitch in addition to the original number, knit a stitch, bring the silk forward, and continue as before for the whole round. Next round, knit a stitch, bring the silk forward, knit two stitches (the loop and that next it) together; knit a stitch, bring the silk forward, and knit two together, until the bag is long enough. This bag looks well with a clasp, and a tassel at the bottom.
Moss Stitch, To Make A Thick Bag. Two needles are required. Moss-stitch can be done with any even number of stitches. Take off the first stitch, pass the cotton forward, rib a stitch, pass the cotton back, and knit one plain, pass it forward, rib a stitch, pass it back, and so on to the end of the row. In the second row, rib and knit alternate stitches. It may be knitted either with four or two needles.
Double Knitting. For doubling knitting, you may cast on any even number of stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, pass the thread back, knit a stitch, putting the thread twice round the needle. This repeated, forms the pattern. You will find, in the next row, you take off the knitted stitch. Should you prefer beginning with a knitted stitch, pass the thread but once round the needle in every first stitch, as this will form a firmer edge.
Double Blanket. This blanket is very light and warm. Two large wooden pins are required. It takes 2 pounds and a half of lamb's-wool to make one 4 feet wide and 5 long. Put on 250 stitches, knit 10 simple rows; then begin and end each row with 6 stitches in plain knitting; the rest of the row is double knitting, putting the wool twice round the pin. The border is frequently made of a different color from the middle; in this case, the two balls of wool are passed once round each other, so as to loop the wool every time.
A Gentleman's Comforter. Double Knitting Two coarse steel needles are necessary, and 5 skeins of fine knitting yarn. Cast on 72 stitches; knit the first stitch, putting the yarn only once round your needle, bring the yarn forward, slip a stitch, pass the yarn back again, knit a stitch, passing the yarn twice round the needle; continue knitting in double knitting with the yarn twice round the needle, until the comforter is long enough. In the last row, before you cast off, the yarn should be passed round the needle only once. Small comforters, to cover the chest in riding, are made in the same way.
A Comfortable Comforter. Cast on 50 stitches; knit 44 turns plain knitting, decrease one stitch in five, until you have only 40 in the row; knit 6 turns, then decrease again 10 stitches in the row; knit 18 turns, increase 10 stitches in the row; knit 6 turns, increase 10 stitches in the row; knit 44 turns, and cast off.
Double Knitted Shawl. Begin with one stitch; increase a stitch every other row, which will make one side slant; knit plain knitting until you have 9 stitches, 7 of which are for the border; these are knitted in plain knitting throughout; with the other stitches begin double knitting, as before. When your shawl is nearly large enough, knit a few rows of plain knitting, to correspond with the border on the other side.
Double Knitted Shawl, With Colored Border. This shawl is knitted in precisely the same way as the one above, except that you begin with the color you mean to have for the border: when you have 7 stitches, you must pass the white round it and knit in the end. Every time you come to the border, you pass the colored and white lamb's-wool round each other, thus looping them together.
Pincushion Cover. Leaf Pattern This pattern is knitted with 4 needles, No. 18. Cast 45 stitches on each of 3 needles (15 being required for each stripe). First round, begin with the cotton forward, purl 2 stitches, pass the cotton back, knit one, taking it at the back, purl 2, pass the cotton back, slip one stitch, knit one, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one; knit 6, bring the cotton forward, knit one, this increases two loop-stitches; repeat this all around. You will find you have increased 1 stitch in every 15. 2nd round; begin with the cotton forward, purl 2 stitches, knit one, taking it at the back, purl 2, slip one, knit one, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until you come to the next purl stitches, and continue as before. In this, and every alternate round, no loop-stitches are to be made, but the purled stripes and the decrease to be done as before, which will reduce the stitches to the original number. Knit these rounds alternately, making the 2 holes (which occur in every alternate round) one stitch sooner each time, i.e., knitting 5, then 4, then 3, then 2, then 1, instead of six stitches, as mentioned in the first round. You will then have six rows of holes, which completes the leaf, and you will find the holes brought to the side of the stripe opposite to that on which they began; you must then begin again as at first. Nine rounds of leaves complete a pincushion.
A current, common way for beginners to cast on uses the thumb method. Knitters start by creating a loop out of a single thread and pulling the loose end of the yarn through the loop to create a slip knot. Then, the slip knot is placed onto the needle and the loose yarn is brought around the thumb to create a loop that the needle slides through. Holding the needle with the left hand, the right hand holds the yarn attached to the yarn ball, wraps it around the needle and pulls down, slides the loop on the left thumb over and onto the needle, and the yarn tail is pulled down to create the first stitch. Yarn weight must also be taken into account when choosing a needle. The finer/thinner the yarn being used, the smaller the needle should be. In the common range today, a very thin 2-ply yarn should be paired with a US size 0-2 needle, a medium-thick 8-ply yarn should be paired with a US size 3-6, and the thickest 14-ply yarn should be paired with a US size 11-17 needle. A common term utilized by those who practice knitting, a skein is a loosely coiled length of length of yarn, thread, or other material wound onto a reel. Often, hand knitted works require a special washing practice. Contemporary washing practices require you to look at the yarn label for any specific instructions pertaining to washing. Usually, you use a mild detergent mixed with warm water in a basin or sink, submerge the yarn in the soapy water and agitate it to loosen any dirt or residue, rinsing thoroughly to remove any soapy residue, gently squeezing the item to remove excess water, and laying it on a clean towel or drying rack to air dry. You can block the yarn to shape it and even out any inconsistencies in texture or gauge during the drying step. Shaded wool refers to yarn that has been dyed in multiple colors creating a gradient or variegated effect giving your work a visually appealing color variation.
"Berlin Wool: Fine Fiber from an Innovative Age." PieceWork, https://pieceworkmagazine.com/berlin-wool-fine-fiber-from-an-innovative-age/. "How To Cast On for Total Beginners." Sheep and Stitch, 17 Dec 2018, sheepandstitch.com/library/long-tail-cast-on-for-beginners/. "How To Wash Hand-Knitted Items." In The Wash, 08 June 2023, https://inthewash.co.uk/laundry-and-ironing/how-to-wash-hand-knitted-items/#:~:text=Hand-Washing%20Knitwear%20Step-By-Step%201%20Step%201%3A%20Fill%20a,...%206%20Step%206%3A%20Remove%20excess%20water%20. "Knitting Needle Sizes for Yarn." Yarn Worx, 11 June 2021, www.yarnworx.com/blogs/yarn-guides/knitting-needle-sizes-for-yarn. "Skein." Merriam-Webster, https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/skein.